Japan 2025

Japan Blog Part I - when the journey is NOT the destination

For a while now I’d had the itch to return to Japan but this time with Leilani by my side. When I spotted flights for “only” 700 EUR per person, I grabbed them faster than sushi disappears at an all-you-can-eat buffet. So on Wednesday, 17 September, the moment had come: time to head back to the land of the rising sun.

I had booked a taxi because the alternative would’ve been dragging our suitcases up 400 stairs (literally) just to catch a bus. Yes, I used to do that. But let’s face it, I’m not 25 anymore, and ruining my back just to save 20 bucks is no longer part of my fitness routine.

When I woke up, my intuitive spiritual self was already telling me something was off. First, the taxi came ten minutes late and we almost missed our train. Then at the airport our Zurich–Frankfurt flight kept getting delayed, and I started worrying about the connection to Tokyo (my cortisol levels spiking). The flight attendants reassured us though: the plane would wait if we ran. Nothing like starting a (jet 2) holiday with a sprint.

Running through the airport was nothing short of an emotional rollercoaster. Picture this: seven people sprinting like Olympic athletes, as if their lives depended on making that plane. Frankfurt Airport, of course, had to remind us of its size. Just running from one gate to the next felt like completing a marathon. It confirmed one thing about myself: I still hate running with all my heart! Halfway through our sprint, we spotted an airport staff member holding a sign: Tokyo gate closed. NOOO

. Instead of sleeping uncomfortably on a plane and wake up in Tokyo, we got rebooked for the next day and shipped off to an airport hotel without any luggage, yay.

What airlines won’t tell you proactively though, is this little gem: after a delay of 3+ hours, you can claim compensation under EU 261. In our case, EUR 1200 for both of us basically making the flights almost free. Plus the hotel accommodation of course. Suddenly, the pain of missing our connection didn’t taste so bitter.

So the next day our flight was supposed to depart at noon but had (of course) one hour delay. Other than that, everything went smooth, the guy next to us was pracitally invisible, didn‘t move for 13 hours, Lani slept half of the flight, just the food was even more disappointing than expected: the salad was somehow frozen and they served the tiniest piece of fish in the history of airplane meals. But then we had lasagne for breakfast, so there‘s that.

When we landed, I was a bit anxious our luggage wouldn’t make it but my AirTag quickly reassured me otherwise. Immigration took only ten minutes. I just love how organized and efficient the Japanese are; it almost feels unfair compared to the rest of the world.

frozen salad & the tiniest piece of fish in the history of airplane meals

Tokyo

We checked into a hotel in Shinjuku, the room is about the size of a shoebox. Good thing we brought two suitcases to trip over.

Travel tip: Navigating Tokyo without mobile data is nearly impossible. Before the trip I bought and activated an eSIM from Mobal (50GB for €20) worked perfectly

We hopped on the metro to Shibuya, home of the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world and more bright billboards than Times Square. Lunch was great, though we ordered way too much, apparently hunger plus travel exhaustion equals bad math. After wandering through Don Quijote, the craziest department store on earth, our senses were officially overstimulated. We decided to call it a day, a good first day.

Japan Blog Part II - From Fluffy Pancakes to Bullet Trains

Surprisingly, we hardly have any jet lag, which makes the start of the trip so much more enjoyable. I’m still a big fan of taking melatonin; it really shaves days off the adjustment, and it’s natural.

Sincr we are big brunch fans, I lined up two spots for Saturday and Sunday. One served the famous fluffy pancakes (so, so delicious), and the other was Sarabeth’s with probably the best Eggs Benedict ever. We’re both foodies, and honestly, Japan along with Italy is culinary heaven for us

arrived at our final destination: Tokyo

thank you, but not today

Shibuya is the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world

Shibuya at night

delicious brunch

found something at the Saturday flea market

good morning Tokyo

Then it was time to tick off the number one thing on our Japan bucket list: Teamlab Borderless, the world’s first digital art museum. It was absolutely mind-blowing and so much fun.

After we hopped on the metro to Asakusa, one of my favorite neighborhoods in Tokyo. Asakusa retains the vibe of an older Tokyo, with traditional craft shops and street-food stalls along and the highlight being the ancient Sensō-ji temple.

However, I was shocked by the number of tourists, it felt like we were at Disneyland (everywhere we’ve been so far). Compared to 8 years ago, foreign visitors increased by about 8.2 million, which is roughly a 28.6% growth. Japan has become more popular, helped along by the favorable conversion rate.

On our third day in Tokyo we visited Shinjuku which is pure organized chaos, with neon lights, endless shops, and enough restaurants to eat somewhere new every day for a year. For 8 bucks we got a karaoke room and crossed that off the list by singing our hearts out.

We also went to Harajuku, and wow, that was even overwhelming for me. Everywhere you look there’s someone in a crazy outfit, crepe in hand, strutting like it’s a runway. I felt delightfully out of place but couldn’t stop grinning. There was even a guy walking 16 dogs, some of them wearing diapers.

come and find me

I am amazed

even drinking tea is an experience

Tokyo Tower

Asakusa

even ice cream is cuter in Japan

Don Quijote, the craziest department store in the world

Sundays are for brunch

it looks like I am not going to the spa

Shinjuku is all about manga

Godzilla peaking out

karaoke to add to our Japan experience

Harajuku

Kyoto

Then it was time to say goodbye to the metropolis. On the Shinkansen we were off to Kyoto. Japan’s famous bullet train, incredibly fast, super punctual, and surprisingly quiet, was definitely my personal highlight

It is a challenge to do this trip only by public transport with all of our luggage. Lots of metro station exits in Japan don’t have an elevator, so working out on vacation becomes mandatory. Sometimes a guy will offer to help. I am a big believer in “selbst ist die Frau” but if you wanna carry my suitcase or install a lamp in my house, go ahead. I am for sure not getting electrocuted

I have never managed to travel light, not even before I had a kid. I can’t do the “one pair of shoes, one jacket” thing. I need at least two of each, and yes, they should somewhat match. And don’t get me started with sunglasses. OCD? Maybe. Crazy? Most definitely.

Then there’s my travel pharmacy, packed like I’m preparing to cross the Sahara and survive a zombie apocalypse (I could do it). And because we also set up an arts & crafts corner for Lani wherever we go, we bring all of that too.

So yeah, light travel? Not in this life…

Travel tip: I’ve never paid for excess luggage in my life. Grab a couple of duty-free plastic bags and suddenly nobody cares what you’re carrying. Works like magic every time.

Fun Facts & Useful Tips for Japan

• Safety first: Japan is one of the safest countries in the world, with a very low crime rate and little risk of scams.

• So clean: Streets are spotless, yet there are surprisingly few public trash cans. People usually carry their trash home. I came prepared with a stash of doggie bags.

• Getting around: The metro network in Tokyo is excellent, and Uber or Grab are available in major cities. If you’re traveling between cities, consider a Japan Rail Pass.

• Drink up: Tap water is safe and clean to drink everywhere.

• High-tech toilets: Some toilets come with up to 38 different functions, an experience in itself!

• Currency perks: The exchange rate is great right now (100 Yen ≈ 0.54 CHF).

• No tipping culture: Service is excellent, but tipping is not expected in Japan.

• The land of vending machines: With over 4 million vending machines, you’ll find one on almost every corner selling everything from hot coffee to umbrellas.

Sushi & Evian

Japan Blog Part lll -

Kyoto, the city of temples & geisha’s

I was excited to return to Kyoto, because last time Kyoto and Nara were my favorite places.

We checked into the Hotel Vista Premio for only €70 a night and were surprised at how big the room was, double the size than in Tokyo. A really good hotel in a super convenient location.

Kyoto feels like stepping into another world after the hustle and bustle of Tokyo. The city is home to over 1,600 temples, so basically there’s one on every corner, from tiny neighborhood shrines to massive, postcard-perfect complexes. It’s calmer, greener, and has that magical old-Japan atmosphere that makes you want to slow down and just soak it all in.

There is a district called Gion, and if you’re lucky you might spot a geisha. We did, and it felt so special, almost like an honor. Blink and she’s gone, like a ghost in sandals.

Leilani really wanted a kimono

. I told her she could buy it with her pocket money because honestly, when is she ever going to wear that again, probably not to school lol. We found one for 15 bucks, she was really proud and looked so cute, and the Japanese people were delighted. Totally worth it after all.

Hotel Premio Visto Kyoto

we pretty much love all Japanese food

Kyoto temples

Gion at night

Arashiyama

And because it’s me traveling, of course I got an infection. Deep down I knew I needed antibiotics, but I still decided to wait it out for four days, hoping it would magically disappear. Because there is nothing I dislike more than going to doctors/hospitals abroad. At the hotel reception nobody spoke English, so I tried explaining via Google Translate. They told me I couldn’t go to a Japanese doctors office because they wouldn’t treat me if I didn’t speak Japanese, so I had to go to an international clinic, which was way more expensive. Some charge up to €500 just for a first consultation (this is why I have the best travel insurance you can get including legal, medical etc.). Surprise, when I finally got there: they didn’t speak English either

So we stood there, translating back and forth on our phones. Just great

What I’ve learned in 25 years of traveling the world is that I don’t need to comprehend everything. Sometimes it’s better to just take a deep breath, conserve my energy and go with the flow.

On the upside, the consultation included antibiotics and some Chinese medicine the doctor recommended, all for €150. I have no clue what this medicine actually is, but I’m trusting the process. After taking these 40 packets, I’ll probably be a new and improved version of myself, possibly even speaking Chinese.

The next day we took a train to Arashiyama, the place is pure serenity… if you can ignore the crowds. The bamboo forest feels like walking through a movie scene, but half the time you’re dodging people taking selfies or walking slowly. Still, the river and mountains in the background make it picture-perfect.

We also visited the Monkey Hill, home to a troop of wild macaques (in fact the only monkey species in Japan). It’s entertaining watching them roam around and climb trees as monkeys should. We went mainly because I knew they’re not aggressive, unlike in Bali. Even the monkeys seem to have adopted Japanese politeness lol.

Since we consider ourselves ambassadors of fun we weren’t done yet, so we rented a rowing boat and got a free arm workout on the river. I couldn’t help but wonder why most people are so bad at rowing…

bamboo forest

contemplating about his life choices, I get it buddy, I‘ve been there

in my next life I wanna be a monkey

this was €8.50

love it!

row row row your boat

On our last day in Kyoto we went to see the famous Fushimi Inari Shrine. I had been telling how magical it is, thousands of bright vermillion torii gates forming endless tunnels winding up the mountain. In my head, it was going to be peaceful and spiritual, like back in 2016. In reality, we were shoulder to shoulder with hundreds of other people, basically shuffling our way through the “scenic tunnels.” Not quite the Zen moment I had promised.

After that, we headed to one of Kyoto’s most iconic temples: Kiyomizu-dera, founded in 780 and famous for its massive wooden stage that juts out over the hillside. Crowds aside, it’s still breathtaking to think people built that without power tools.

Then we needed a break from the big crowds, and I had found a place on the map that looked really appealing, one that neither I nor any of my Japanese friends had heard of. So we boarded a train toward the sea…

If you’re wondering about costs in Japan:

- Bottle of water: €0.50

- Meal for two: €12–30 (depending on the place)

- Coffee/tea: €2–4

- Ice cream or snack: €1–3

- Entrance to temples/museums: €3–10

- Shinkansen ride (Tokyo to Kyoto): €80 per person, kids are cheaper

- Bus/subway ride: €1

- Japan Rail Pass: approx. €350 for one week

- Wagyu 100 g. approx. €18

P.S. A few people asked me about the compensation claims for flight delays. The important thing is to submit them directly via the airline’s website. Those tempting ads from external providers on social media will handle it for you, but they’ll also take 25–30% of the payout in case of success.

exploring a few of the 1600 temples in Kyoto

Golden Temple

Fushimi Inari

Cafe Vermillion

Kiyomizu-dera Temple

Amanohashidate

Japan Blog Part IV - From Sandbars to Sushi Trains

When we arrived in Amanohashidate, we rented two bikes and rode across the 3.6 km pine-covered sandbar, famous as one of Japan’s three most scenic spots. We stopped to play on the beach before taking the chairlift up to the viewpoint, which also doubles as a little amusement park for kids. The highlight for Lani was definitely the rides; for me, it was watching her have fun and taking in the incredible view.I’ve noticed such a big change in Leilani as a traveler. When she was younger, she just came along for the ride, what else was she supposed to do? But now she’s actually part of the adventure: pitching in ideas, helping navigate, and really paying attention to her surroundings.This trip I’ve also started teaching her about money…how to budget her pocket money, think about value, and make her own decisions. And she’s doing amazing. The funny part? She’s way more stingy with her own money than with mine. Typical kid lol. But seeing her grow into a little independent traveler makes me so proud. She’ll sometimes look at me and say: “We’re travelers and not tourists, right Mommy?” And honestly, I couldn’t agree more.

Traveling really is the best school of life. Kids learn more from exploring the world than they ever could from books…curiosity, courage, independence, and a sense of wonder. They learn about other cultures, empathy, resilience, and the important reminder that not everyone is as privileged as we are. And above all, that if we can help someone in any way, we should.

we even went swimming in the Sea of Japan, air 25°, water 22°

amazing view

chairlift to go up the viewpoint

Fairfield Mariott Hotel in Miyazu

sushi train

Ine

Our hotel in Miyazu was fantastic, and we ended up having sushi two nights in a row. Reason A: it was hands down the best sushi I’ve ever had in my life (and I’ve had a lot, trust me). Reason B: sushi trains are always an experience. We might have gone a little overboard with how much we ate…but hey, it’s not every day you get to have sushi in Japan, right?

The second day we took a bus along the coast to Ine. Ine is a tiny fishing village on the coast of Kyoto Prefecture, famous for its traditional wooden boathouses built right on the water. It feels like stepping back in time: quiet streets, boats bobbing in front of the houses, and the kind of charm that makes you instantly slow down. It’s one of those places where you just breathe and take it all in.

on the bus to Ine

Ine, old fishing village

when something good happens, travel to celebrate. If something bad happens to you, travel to forget. If nothing happens to you, travel so that something happens

what an amazing trip it has been so far

if I am at the beach I am happy

Osaka

From Miyazu we took a train to Osaka, the city is famous for it‘s vibrant nightlife and the best streetfood.

When I found out that the World Expo 2025 is happening in Osaka at the exact time we’ll be there, I just had to buy tickets - talk about perfect timing!

A little city was built by the sea representing 160 countries in pavilions for a duration of 6 months. The Expo theme is “Designing Future Society for Our Lives”, so was expecting a mix of mind-blowing technology and futuristic ideas.

Never in my life have I seen that many people in one place, a record of 200‘000 in one day! It took us an hour just to get in, and you even needed reservations for the different pavilions, and still ended up waiting in line forever. I loved how each pavilion was unique, but honestly, the sheer amount of people was overwhelming the both of us.

Dotonburi

Osaka, famous for its street food

World Expo Osaka

China Pavilion

200,000 visitors in one day

Then I had the glorious idea to dye my hair (why wait till I am back home). Since I don’t read Japanese, I could only hope I was actually picking dark brown because I am definitely not cut out to be a blonde. Luckily, I nailed the color. Unluckily, the bathroom sink also got a makeover in the exact same shade. This is so me

such a klutz!

So I did what anyone would do: texted my hairdresser friends and my good old pal ChatGPT

. Armed with a shopping list in Japanese (including bleach), I set off on a mission. After some serious scrubbing, the sink looked as good as new. No hotel blacklist for me, and my liability insurance remains untouched (this time). In Australia I managed to scratch my rental car one time but with a little help from YouTube, some polish, and the right paint color, I went full Houdini on it. Scratch? What scratch? So I don‘t even get stressed out in these situations anymore.

Somehow I always end up doing the most random things on vacation. Last week in Kyoto, for example, I went to a chiropractor because who doesn’t want to get their spine cracked after a longhaul flight in economy? Half the time I regret these decisions afterwards, but at least they’ll make great stories for my grandkids one day (if I ever have any). And better to regret the things you did than the things you missed out on.

this is typical, restaurants will display their food options on plastic

Nara

Japan Blog Part V - Osaka Nights, Bowing Deer, and Tokyo Adventures

In Osaka we checked into the Cordia Hotel Hommachi for about €100 a night. Great location, tiny room but hey, that’s Japan. We hopped on the subway to explore Dotonbori Street, famous for its street food and probably the craziest, most colorful street in all of Japan. Naturally, we had to try a bit of everything. A must-do is the river cruise, it’s the best way to see all the neon lights and billboards from a different angle.

Friends from our neighborhood, Camille and her son, are also traveling as a duo in Japan, so we met up for a day trip to Nara.

Nara is a town inhabited by both humans and about 1,500 deer, roaming freely through the streets and parks. These deer are considered sacred messengers of the gods, a belief rooted in Shinto traditions that date back more than a thousand years.

Nara is honestly one of the most special places I’ve ever been, everywhere you turn, there’s a deer. They’ve even learned to bow in exchange for special deer cookies. At one point, a woman had some in a plastic bag and a deer came over to investigate. She panicked, dropped the bag, and of course the deer decided to eat the whole thing plastic included. While her and everyone else just stood there laughing, I ran after the deer and tried pulling the bag out of its mouth. The deer was not amused and tried to head-butt me, luckily, it was a female without antlers

. I handed the soggy, saliva-covered bag back to the woman and said, “Plastic is not deer food.”

At some point we had to get out of the way of two bucks fighting. A behavior called sparring during the mating season, which is done to establish dominance and secure breeding rights for females. While sometimes they just spar, if they are evenly matched, they will engage in intense combat.

Nara, home to 1500 deer

it's World Deer Day...I made that up, but tell the others

the queen of the deer

my dog would be so jealous

Hey there sweet bambi

you will never go thirsty in Japan

Shinsekai

Tokyo

From Osaka we traveled back on the badass train, the Shinkansen

. It only took 2.5 hours at a casual 300 km/h. Sightseeing at that speed is a bit tricky though… you mostly just get dizzy

When traveling to Japan, I recommend planning your route first and then doing the math to see if the Japan Rail Pass is actually worth it. A one-week pass costs around €380 per person, so you’d need to use trains almost every day or cover long distances (especially on the bullet train) to make it worthwhile. Regional trains are quite affordable, for example, we only spent about €280 total on trains for two weeks for both of us.

Once we got to Tokyo, we checked into an Airbnb just 300 meters from the famous Shibuya Scramble and spent the evening exploring the area, and of course, the restaurants. The next day we met up with our friends Aya and Rich and their kids for a super fun, relaxed day, strolling through Yoyogi Park, playing frisbee, shopping, eating, talking, and laughing. Aya is half Japanese and used to live in Tokyo, so she was the perfect tour guide. They just set off on a four-month Asia trip, lucky them!

The Shinkansen: the baddest of them all

we were the only ones in the restaurant, so we pretty much had our own private chef

watermelon for €360

Hachiko statue, true and sad story

quiz question: what is fluffier than a cumulus cloud? my Japanese pancakes this morning

meeting friends in foreign places

jumping around Tokyo

with my buddy Rich

shopping for the best snacks

Shibuya baby

the escalator turned into a rainbow when I stepped on

For us, our time in Japan came to an end. It felt like we had been gone for much longer than 2.5 weeks because we saw and experienced so much. Leilani decided that Japan is now her favorite of all the 26 countries she has visited. I love Japan too, and I’m so glad I came back to explore more it’s definitely in my top 10. The country is incredibly safe, spotless, and the people are friendly and helpful. And the food? Absolutely 10/10.

I definitely underestimated the hassle of getting to the airport from Shibuya, the busiest place in Tokyo and a maze of train and metro lines. Navigating through thousands of people with luggage and a child during rush hour felt like an Olympic sport. Every exit seemed to lead to a different line, and of course, ours was nowhere in sight while the clock was ticking.

Just as I was starting to panic, I asked a young guy for help, and miracle of miracles, he spoke English and was heading to the same train. He practically escorted us all the way. Thank you, Universe! Once we made it to Haneda Airport, everything went smoothly. It wasn’t busy at all, had a great food court, and, shockingly, probably the only cheap souvenir shop in the history of airports.

I wasn’t exactly looking forward to the 14-hour flight, but I was pleasantly surprised we had so much legroom that on most airlines this would’ve counted as premium economy. I even managed to sleep… until the Germans next to us started talking so loudly it felt like they were using a megaphone to host a Ballermann party.

After the third time being ripped out of REM sleep, my patience was gone. I didn’t even try to be polite, I just told them to shut up because everyone else on the plane was trying to sleep. And don’t get me started on the ANA food hands down the worst I’ve ever had. Luckily, we came prepared with fruit and snacks. To this day, my favorite airline remains Singapore Airlines

When we arrived in Munich to catch our connecting flight, I was shocked to see the airport packed with people stranded, sleeping on the floor and benches. Later, I read in the news that the airport had been shut down the night before due to multiple drone sightings. Our flight was delayed, but luckily, not for long. It definitely felt good to be landing in Switzerland, even if the temperature had dropped by 20 degrees.

Japan, you’ve been unforgettable. From neon-lit streets to bowing deer, sushi feasts, and Shinkansen speeds, every moment was an adventure. Traveling with Lani makes everything even more special - her laughter, curiosity, and little affirmations will stay with me

forever.

Until next time, Japan, thank you for the memories, the lessons, and all the fun. Arigatō!

➤

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