Panama City
Biden swooped into New York City, turning the airport into a presidential frenzy. When he was about to depart in the Air Force One, the whole airport came to a freeze and the plane we were waiting on was circling over New York, and then eventually had to land in Washington for refueling, causing a delay of 3.5 hours. This happened to me before with President Obama in San Francisco, just my luck. We spent over 6 hours at JFK airport and Lani was just chill.
She was playing with her plush puppy Akela, when they called for boarding, and after sitting down in our assigned seats, she suddenly realized that she had forgotten it at the gate.
I immediately told the flight attendant and it looked like they were about to close the door without the plush. Lani having a big meltdown, when Luis, a hero of a flight attendant appeared with Akela! The plush pup was reunited with Lani, and Luis scored some Swiss chocolate – he was elated - a win-win indeed!
Once I drove 1 hour return cause she had lost that dog at a mall in Australia, another time I retraced our steps through Airlie Beach, eventually finding it at a playground. I am starting to lose patience with that thing though. Our real dog Billie Jean is less high maintenance! However, I might write a children’s book about the adventures of Leilani & Akela.
2 hours into the flight, they called out for a doctor due to a medical emergency. A disabled elderly lady fell and was bleeding. Luckily, not a serious injury and no emergency landing was needed. I was able to give her some pain killers since my first aid kit is well stocked (I can compete with any pharmacy lol).
And for the remaining 2.5 hours a toddler behind me was pushing and pulling on my seat - yay! I might be a mom but that shit annoys me too!
I am like a chameleon when it comes to traveling. I might not be super book smart per se but I am very street smart (it’s the Sicilian mafiosa blood). When I get to a new place it takes me exactly 2 days to adapt and then I am pretty much like a local, knowing my way around and what the people are about, I even drive like them.
Here in Panama they drive pretty decent, the roads are okey too, compared to Mexico or Costa Rica for example. Once I was driving on a highway in Mexico at night with my friend Sandra and I hit a random speedbump (on THE highway!!) while going 80 mph. The car flew high up in the air, we were screaming like we were on a rollercoaster, fortunately we landed without any damage to the car or us haha. Just a short walk down memory lane…
After landing in PTY, we checked into the charming Magnolia Inn located in Casco Viejo, the historic heart of Panama City. After enjoying a delightful breakfast, we leisurely explored the area before opting for a quick Uber ride to the city's largest mall. A bit of retail therapy never hurt nobody, especially not me. I also got SIM card with unlimited data and calls for a steal at $12.
Casco Viejo, Panama City
San Blas Islands
The following morning, our adventure began bright and early at 5 a.m. Despite the lack of sleep, excitement propelled us forward as we embarked on a three-hour journey along winding mountain roads. Unfortunately, Lani experienced some motion sickness and had to throw up along the way, but thankfully, she hadn't eaten breakfast yet, mitigating the discomfort and mess by half (for all of us). Poor thing, always so brave.
Then we embarked on a journey to the breathtaking San Blas Islands, a slice of paradise off the coast of Panama on the Caribbean side. Hosted by the indigenous Guna Yala people, these 365 islands are a testament to their rich culture and stewardship of the land. With their own borders and autonomy, the Guna Yala preserve their way of life amidst pristine beaches, turquoise waters, and vibrant coral reefs. So beautiful that Maná wrote a song about them and they were the set of Money Heist (Casa de Papel) Season 3. All you get are basic accommodations though, nothing luxurious at all. I haven‘t had a accommodation like that in 20 years, since my backpacking years actually. Practically just a shack, no bathroom, and it ain’t cheap either. And the food options are limited to fresh caught fish or chicken with rice or fries for lunch AND dinner. And since my salmonella hospitalization in New Zealand, I am cautious with chicken, so fish it was for us, all day everyday. At least our omega-3 levels went up haha. The thing I loved was not wearing shoes for 3 days, just walking around barefoot in the sand.
entering Guna Yala territory (indigenous people) with their own border and autonomy
off to the San Blas Islands
We embarked on a journey to the breathtaking San Blas Islands, a slice of paradise off the coast of Panama on the Caribbean side. Hosted by the indigenous Guna Yala people, these 365 islands are a testament to their rich culture and stewardship of the land.
the perfect little island 
three palm trees 
and one house
On our first day, we soaked up the serene atmosphere of the island, indulging in relaxation, swimming, and playful moments on the sandy shores. The following day, we dove into the mesmerizing world beneath the waves, snorkeling amidst a captivating shipwreck with vibrant corals and exotic fish. Later, a boat picked us up to discover neighboring islands, with a highlight being a pristine sandbank where we delighted in swimming and soaking up the breathtaking vistas of paradise.
delicious breakfast
oh yes
when you get pretty much the whole island to yourself
on the island, we are doing it island style
morning walk with her plush puppy
starfish
an Blas, where one of my favorite series Casa the Papel (Money Heist Season 3) was filmed
it cannot get anymore perfect than this
The same return trip awaited us, 1-hour boat ride, 3-hours by car, when I noticed the sign to Darien and it reminded me of a sad circumstance. The Darien Gap is a 160-km stretch of inhospitable, dense jungle separating Colombia and Panama, it is not only a popular drug smuggling route but also the major migrant route from South to North America. It poses formidable challenges to migrants seeking passage through Central America. Despite its allure as a shortcut, the Darien Gap is fraught with dangers: treacherous terrain, venomous creatures, and the presence of armed groups. Many migrants (a lot of families with young children) risk and lose their lives attempting the perilous journey, navigating through dense forests and across dangerous raging rivers in pursuit of a better life. Countless stories speak of tragedy and loss. If they make it to Panama, they still have 5 more countries to cross until they get to the border of the United States. Most of them then ride ontop of the ultra dangerous La Bestia freight train through Mexico for days. The lenghts people will go to in search of a better life. Of course the same goes for the migrants crossing the Mediterranean Sea by rafts. I am always grateful to have been born in a safe country, also one where I don’t face prosecution or even worse execution for being gay. If it’s one thing I am especially grateful for Today, it’s safety.
El Valle de Anton
When we returned to Panama City from San Blas Islands, we checked into a Eurostars Hotel. Since it’s part of the same chain as the Grand Hotel Union in Slovenia, my friends arranged an upgrade to a suite, which was greatly appreciated.
For lunch, we opted for Teppanyaki at the city mall, followed by a relaxing chair massage for me and some fun for Lani at the indoor playground-win/win.
The next day, we used Uber to reach the airport and pick up our rental car. Fortunately, the car already had plenty of scratches, so I wasn’t too concerned about adding one or two more (not intentionally of course). I was excited about driving myself for the next five days. The Uber driver told me to use Waze Navigation App. In Panama there are no fixed speed cameras, but a lot of cops standing on the side of the road with their speed guns/traps and waze will warn you about them. Great app!
While our initial plan was to head directly to Santa Catalina (6-hour drive), I spontaneously decided to make a stopover in El Valle de Anton. Which was a great idea. Known for its picturesque hiking trails, waterfalls, and rejuvenating hot springs, Anton Valley offers an unforgettable retreat for nature lovers and adventure seekers. I booked a charming hotel, The Golden Frog Inn, for $70.
During our stay, we visited a small zoo and went on a jungle hike to a waterfall. At a swimming hole along the way, we were delighted to spot a large sloth high up in a tree, putting on a captivating show as it climbed a protruding branch. Unfortunately, a stupid American tourist thought it was a good idea to fly his drone too close to the sloth, causing it to retreat in fear.
paradise
cuteness overload 
little hike to the waterfall
lucky sighting of the day
so fresh & juicy 
Santa Catalina / Coiba National Park
The next day we continued our road trip to Santa Catalina, the last hour was terrible to drive. Dirt roads, big potholes, right then and there I wished I had rented a 4WD. I can highly recommend all-wheel drive for both Costa Rica and Panama.
Nestled along Panama's rugged Pacific coast, Santa Catalina beckons adventurers and beach enthusiasts alike with its laid-back charm and pristine natural beauty. Renowned as a haven for surfers seeking world-class waves, this quaint fishing village offers more than just its legendary breaks.
vistas
juice & art
We came here to explore Coiba National Park, an incredible marine gem in the Panamanian Pacific, consisting of 38 islands with magnificent flora and fauna, often referred to as the Galapagos of Panama. The most impressive part of the region is not what is above the water it is what you might encounter below. Coiba located in the perfect marine corridor, it is home to countless species such as humpback whales, whale sharks, dolphins, turtles, sharks, stingrays and many more animals.
We embarked on a full-day tour that encompassed a three-hour journey both ways. Our group consisted of just eight people, accompanied by two guides, aboard a small boat. Our first stop was a deserted island boasting the most breathtaking beach imaginable, where the snorkeling experience was nothing short of fantastic, with colorful fish, sea turtles, and more. Lani, our young companion, proved to be quite the trooper, joining us adults for a total of 1.5 hours of snorkeling, which also involved a fair amount of swimming, most of the time holding mine or the guide’s hand though. After all it’s the Pacific Ocean.
Next, we ventured to the main island of Coiba, where we encountered agoutis, a larger rodent species common in Central America, along with a massive saltwater crocodile and an array of beautiful birds. Once a prison until about two decades ago, yet nobody dared to escape from there, dangerous jungle, crocodile infested rivers, sharks and strong currents and way too far from the mainland.
Our tour continued with a visit to another isolated island, where we indulged in a lunch of fried rice and watermelon. We spent our time swimming and collecting seashells, reveling in the sheer joy of beachcombing
One last snorkeling stop and we were on our 90-minute trip back. This was one of the roughest boat rides of my life (and I have been on a lot of boats!) Up to 2 meter waves in this small vessel, it was so freaking bumpy. My back was killing me and I had to pee so bad that I started having cramps in my bladder and ontop of that got sea sick! It felt like a lifetime and I just wanted it to end! Each minute felt like an eternity and was very painful! My daughter on the other hand didn’t complain once, maybe I am just getting old lol
lunch spot
fresh from the tree: agua de coco
friday's on a deserted island
The next day was rest day, which we spent at the hotel pool, the hammock, eating out at the local restaurants, exactly what we needed.
occupying the whole pool
yoghurt loving gecko
Then it was time continue on our last leg of the road trip, Santa Catalina to David (4-hours). The first hour, again bumpy af. As I turned onto the main road we got immediately pulled over at a police checkpoint, which was fine, we talked about tattoos and he gave me travel advice. On the last 10 km’s I wasn’t paying attention to Waze app that warned me about a speed trap. I thought it was still 100 km/h on the highway, however, that had obviously changed to 80 km/h and I got caught. The officer told me that I was gonna get a fine, asked for my drivers license and passport, wanted to know where we were going next, and when we were leaving the country. I was of course friendly and compliant, told him I was sorry about “speeding” and that I thought it was still 80. He didn’t speak any English, so he typed something on the translator app, showed it to me and it said: I am letting you off with a warning this time, don’t get caught speeding again. I shook his hand, smiled, thanked him and we arrived in David 10 minutes later. The Panamanian police is definitely less intimidating than the Mexican. I used to worry whenever they searched my bag at random checkpoints, fearing they might plant cocaine and then present me with a choice: pay $5000 or face 25 years in jail. Maybe I've been watching too many documentaries, haha!
We dropped off our rental car with (possibly) one or two more scratches, and we were more than excited about our next destination: Bocas del Toro
Bocas del Toro
Unfortunately, since the pandemic, there's no longer a direct connection from David to Bocas del Toro. Consequently, we had to fly to Panama City and catch another flight from there. With just 30 minutes between flights, we had to collect our luggage, check-in again, pass through security, undergo passport control, and even have our luggage inspected by a drug detection dog. Unlike most places where bags are checked through to the final destination on a single ticket, here, it's a different story. After voicing my concerns, an airport staff member escorted us directly to the gate, ensuring we make our connection. As we descended into Bocas, the breathtaking view of the nine islands, countless islets and the turquoise Caribbean Sea greeted us from the sky—a truly stunning sight!
Nestled along Panama's Caribbean coast, Bocas del Toro is a captivating archipelago known for its vibrant culture, lush rainforests, and pristine beaches. With its colorful wooden houses, lively atmosphere, and crystal-clear waters teeming with marine life, Bocas del Toro offers an unforgettable island getaway unlike any other.
Bocas unique range of habitats gives it an incredible biodiversity – the area boasts frogs in all the colors of the rainbow, the largest sea turtle species in the world and even a mammal that is found nowhere else in the world.
We checked into a cute Airbnb 2 km’s from the town center. The purple house, like all houses on the water, are actually built on the water. After posting a photo of it, a friend told me that he stayed in the exact same Airbnb, what a coincidence.
On our first day, a thunderstorm kept us indoors until noon, leaving us hungry and eventually hangry. Desperate for food, I called a cab, and we headed to a fantastic Italian restaurant downtown. Over a delicious meal, we struck up conversations with some expat guests, learning about their experiences living in this beautiful place.
Next Destination: Bocas del Toro
Airbnb goals
lunch at Meren Pool Club
kayaking adventure
Boca del Drago
smiling puppy
when it rains it pours
flooded main street
The next day it rained (rather poured) again but I didn’t think it was gonna last long, so we got into a collectivo and drove to the famous Boca del Drago beach. The rain eventually stopped, and from there we hiked on a jungle path to Starfish Beach. If you are lucky enough you will see hundreds of starfish in the water. However, like any popular tourist spot, some people touching them, even taking them out of the water (killing them this way), this starfish sanctuary is slowly being destroyed!
This annoyed me, so we got a water taxi back to Bocas Town. Water taxis are a common way to get around, and a short ride will cost you $3, on land a taxi ride $2, collectivo $1.
Starfish Beach
the jungle toilet
I read about the Top 10 things to do in Bocas del Toro and The Floating Bar was listed as one of them.
The name says it all. It’s a bar, and it’s floating on a platform. They have an upper deck, chairs to chill on, noodles to swim with, a platform for jumping off of, and plenty of sun.
We had a great time eating tacos, slurping on fresh fruit smoothies and jumping into the water. Until two German guys in their 20’s disturbed our peace. They were on the upper deck laughing and talking trash about, not me, but Leilani because she was wearing a life vest and floaties. Those sad human beings thought that was hilarious. My daughter of course didn’t think it was funny and me neither! I called up to them in German: Are you guys seriously making fun of my daughter? Then I got out of the water, went upstairs and asked them in front of their big group of friends if they think it’s cool to be bullying a 5-year old who wants to be safe in the ocean. I told them that my daughter was more mature than them and to take their kindergarten elsewhere, we are here to have fun and not put up with this behavior. Five minutes later they left: Tschüss!
Don’t make a momma lioness angry, she will always protect her cubs.
Just after they left, a rainbow appeared in the sky and we finished the day off in a peaceful and good atmosphere.
The Floating Bar
Bocas Town
the only sharks I wanna see today
The next day I had booked a tour, which will get a review of 5 (from 10) from me. We tried to spot dolphins in Dolphin Bay and other wildlife along the mangroves, however the boat driver had his music blasting, so we didn’t see anything! Big surprise because animals love a party boat…NOT! The nice thing was the visit to Cayo Zapatilla, an island so beautiful, like out of a National Geographic documentary. And then they took us to a different island for lunch at 3.30! I am glad I have an easy child and brought some snacks, even in Italy or Spain this would be late lol
I was taken aback when my order of fresh fish turned out to be pangasius, imported frozen from Vietnam. It was disappointing to find such a dish on the menu when the freshest catch is readily available right at our doorstep. What's more, the meal wasn't exactly cheap either.
Cayo Zapatilla aka Paradise
our sunset spot on the platform
heading to Red Frog Beach
Lani spotted a little caiman
jungle path
wonderful nature
Red Frog Beach
On Friday we called our favorite water taxi driver Julio to drive us to Red Frog beach where I had booked a ziplining tour. This was a 10/10! The guides were so nice, helpful and great with Lani, it was only the two of us, and she was so brave to do 4 cables by herself when presented with the option to do all of them with a guide. What a liberating feeling to be ziplining through the jungle, seing sloths and the little red frogs.
lucky to see a red frog
ziplining and canopy through the jungle on Bastimentos Island
our favorite taxi boat driver picking us up right from our dock
On our final day, we received news from our Airbnb host, Marlin, about a devastating fire that swept through three buildings on Main Street. One of them being a just recently closed down hotel. Rumors circulated that the owners might have intentionally started the fire, desperate to sell the property after struggling to find a buyer. Thankfully, there were no human casualties, but tragically, two dogs perished in the blaze. Insurance fraud at its worst!
be a traveler, not a tourist
taxi boat $3
Then, we made our way to Carenero Island for some amazing seafood at the best fish joint around. I dug into a tasty plate of fresh Mahi Mahi, topped with shrimp and calamari. After that, it was back to the floating bar to kick back for the rest of the afternoon
best seafood restaurant: fresh mahi mahi topped with calamari and shrimp
perfect way to end a day 
starting the day right with a fresh coconut
Adios Bocas del Toro: 9 islands & thousands of islets
After 6 amazing days in Bocas del Toro it was time to say goodbye to paradise and fly back to Panama City for our last night before slowy heading back to Switzerland, again with a 3-day stopover in New York City.
Our Panama trip was an unforgettable adventure filled with mother-daughter quality time, awe-inspiring beaches, captivating islands, and abundant wildlife. It allowed us to reconnect with nature in its purest form, while encountering diverse wildlife at every turn added a thrilling dimension to our journey. Whether snorkeling with turtles alongside vibrant coral reefs, ziplining in the jungle being watched by sloths, bumpy boat rides or simply basking in the sun, each day brought new and exhilarating experiences. Panama truly captured our hearts with its unparalleled beauty, diversity and endless opportunities for adventure, making it a trip we'll cherish forever. And I am especially grateful to have done this with the best travel buddy ever, my daughter Leilani.