Thailand 2023

First of all I can‘t believe it‘s the End of April already, feels like yesterday it was just New Years…however, that means it‘s time to go on our next adventure: Thailand

Yes, for those who know me well, I have been to Thailand many times before and spent a total of 5 months there, but I just love it! It‘s cheap, beautiful beaches, great food, safe and easy to travel, best massages, people are nice and super kid friendly. Last time we were here, was with Leilani when she was just 5-months-old. When we were eating at restaurants for example, waiters would take the baby and carry her around so we could eat without distraction, that‘s how great people are. So Thailand definitely is in my top 5 of favorite countries to visit.

Luckily, I had heard on the news that Zurich airport was super busy, so we left Bern in time to be there 3 hours prior to the flight. Never before had I seen that many people at ZRH airport, the line for security was so long, it took more than an hour to get just through that. Some people actually missed their flights, and the lady at passport control thought that that was quite entertaining. She was a devious border patrol agent that one. Just glad I booked with Thai Airways and not Swiss..Swiss is okey for inter-European flights, long-haul whatsoever it sucks in my opinion. The major Asian airlines (lead by Singapore) are great, especially service-wise and deploy bigger, more spacious aircrafts.

The flight went smoothly, we hit the travelers jackpot and had the whole row to ourselves. Leilani watched some stuff, ate a lot of snacks, said she was tired and was going to sleep, and slept till we landed. When people ask me how do you do intercontinental flights solo with a kid. Honest answer: there are no rules up in the sky! You wanna watch 50 episodes of Peppa Pig? Go ahead. You wanna stick a whole stack of sticky notes on the seat? Have fun. You wanna eat pretzels for dinner? Be my guest. Plus, I don’t care what other people think because chances are about 99% that I will never see them ever again. So that helps. And Leilani is used to traveling by now.

But ya, I guess it is definitely easier if you just have one.

When you land in SE Asia and you exit the airport, humidity and the heat hit you like a wall and there is always a distinct smell in the air.

From landing at 4.30 a.m. to sitting in a cab it took only 45 minutes

so we hit the bed at the hotel and slept for a few hours. Just enough to not make jetlag worse

Bangkok

For the good old times sake I booked a basic guesthouse near Khao San Road. I am one of the people that watched the Beach (with Leo Di Caprio) 20 years ago and got inspired to come to Thailand as a backpacker, 4 months before the Tsunami in 2004.

The first day we had to get used to the heat! They have been having heat waves over 40° degrees celcius!!! Today it was 36°, which is already way too hot for my daughter. She takes after her other mom when it comes to heat. So we had lunch and I got a massage after. I am a sucker for massages, it’s like my favorite thing to do here. If I am in Thailand for a month, I would get at least one a day. One hour is about USD 8-10 which is nothing for the hard work it is! So we always give good tips of course. Then we hit Asiatique Riverfront market which is quite cool. You can also do river cruises from there.

Khao San Road, Bangkok

Asiatique Riverfront Market

breakfast goals

electricity done Thai style

Thailand has been experiencing a heat wave and we are sweating like crazy. So shopping at MBK with airconditioning

turns out, you don‘t have to go all the way to Japan to eat sushi

best friends for life

The next day it was still too hot, so we had a delicious breakfast, massage, went to the mall and in the evening to Chatuchak Weekend Market.

Chatuchak is my favorite market in Bangkok – actually the world’s largest weekend market! Yes, this is a shopping paradise for those who love cheap shopping and a place not to be missed when coming to Bangkok. Chatuchak is home to more than 15,000 market stalls that are spread over more than 14 hectares. On a typical weekend, more than 200,000 visitors come here to sift through the goods on offer.

Funny thing happened at this tiny food stall. I see this German actress from a soap (GZSZ) I always watch, however I didn‘t recognize her as that. So I look at her, she looks at me, and I ask her in Swiss German: do we know each other? did we maybe go to school together? She was like, I don‘t think so and only then I realized who she was

she thought it was hilarious and was really nice, we talked about traveling and our kids played together. Not as exciting as that one time Roger Federer sat in front of me at the movies, but I‘ll take it.

10$ meal

Chatuchak Night Market, biggest in the world

how random, met an actress from the soap I am always watching

just way to hot

Today was a bit hectic to say the least! First of all, I went and got money out from an

I did not realize that I took the money but forgot the card. So 3 hours later when I wanted to pay for something I was like: F**K!!! Best case the card got pulled back in, worst case somebody after me took the card and is on a shopping spree. So we took a cab back there, luckily the ATM was outside of a bank and they had my card! yay! I did bring 3 cards though just to be safe and because I know myself too well I would lose my head if it wasn’t attached

Then we were a tiny bit late to get a cab to the airport. Little did I know it was a public holiday tomorrow and everyone on the highway going someplace! Big freaking traffic jam all the way there! I was getting a little stressed when I realized that we only had 40 minutes to catch our flight! Fingers crossed that check-in for that flight was still open! It was indeed, and we ran through passport control, half of BKK airport, security - where of course I had sunscreen, all kinds of liquids in my bag

(like a total beginner) and on top of everything got pulled aside, but eventually arrived at the gate just in time for boarding. I could not believe our luck when we were sitting on that plane heading to Samui . This was a world record for me and adrenaline levels at it’s highest! And Lani as always, going with the flow, in stressful situations this girl is ZEN

After 3 days I am glad to leave this city behind, we are islanders at heart and that‘s what the rest of our trip will be: Islands Next stop: Koh Samui

moving on to the islands

Koh Samui - Thailand’s second largest island

So we arrived in Samui Island and already the airport is super welcoming. A touch of Hawaii/Mexico with the gate being a palapa

When we got to the hotel and saw our room we were thrilled! We have the best room in the house with sea and pool view and only paying $400 for 6 nights!

On the three islands we are visiting, we have really nice hotels booked, and that‘s the upside of traveling off-season, top hotels are affordable. For example The Cabin on Koh Phangan would regularly in high-season cost approx. $ 1600 for 5 nights, I am paying $ 500. Of course you can stay in more basic accommodations for less than that.

This heatwave is unlike anything I’ve experienced! you shower, put on fresh clothes and 5 min later you are dripping in sweat. And when you walk outside in the sun you feel like you are standing in a fire. And the aircon is not able to cool the room down anymore, so you are just sweating like crazy at night because the temperature doesn’t go down much.

Luckily, in Samui it’s a bit better and there’s always a light breeze, which helps.

Here, we are taking a little down time, relaxing, building sand castles and of course getting more massages.

Leilani was approached by seven 20-year -old Israeli women who talked to her in Hebrew because they thought she was from Israel. Story of my life btw, everywhere I go. Apparently we both look Israeli. Then they had a long discussion about traveling in English, which was cute, because suddenly I thought there were eight 20-year-olds and not seven

Afterwards she was telling me how she likes older friends better haha

We also met this German/Austrian couple my age, he is a captain for Emirates, flying my favorite aircraft the A380 (capacity 650 passengers

) and she is an actress, and they are living on the Palm in Dubai. They are here with their two kids and two nannies. They offered that their nannies would also watch Lani. We spent like 3 days together and one day the nanny played with the kids in the indoor playground while the three of us got facials upstairs in the spa at the mall, win win, I would say. They were really nice, the kids had a so much fun and they invited us to come to Dubai to visit them and we will definitely do that someday. They are just like me loving massages and all things spa related

That’s one of the things I love most about traveling, meeting interesting people from all kinds of backgrounds and life stories.

OZO Chaweng, Koh Samui - best room in the house

win win situation

best pad thai

Anthong Marine National Park

On our last day on Koh Samui (Koh meaning island) we booked a daytrip on a boat to Anthong Marine National Park, archipelago of 42 islands in the Gulf of Thailand. Although I’ve done this before, it amazes me every time the beautiful islands, views, sea caves, and coral reefs

I always bring our own life vest for Lani because usually they don’t have them this small and they are not safe if there’s no collar and of course snorkeling gear

there’s nothing more gross than using the ones provided that 3000 people already chewed on and spit in.

We met two teachers from South Korea and spent all day with them and on one island, one of them offered she would stay with Leilani and the other kids on the beach and play, so I could do the hike up the viewpoint with the other one. The hike was brutal! the most strenuous one I’ve ever done! Super steep and in 33 degree heat it was torture. However, the view was fantastic! Just paradise!

Anthong Marine National Park

the steep hike up in the heat, brutal but totally worth it

born kayakers

in my element

Fisherman’s Village Bophut

world record of the smallest banana

today we collected plastic on the beach instead of seashells

a coconut (or three) a day, keeps dehydration away

monkey business

dinner on the beach

next stop?

Koh Phangan - a gem of an island off Thailand's Gulf Coast

I told my daughter we were gonna go to the next Island: Koh Phangan, where the world famous Full Moon Party is happenning once a month. However, only one day after the party (on purpose, I am too old and she is obviously too young). She was so disappointed because she wanted to party as well in 12 years maybe you little dreamer/party animal, she is an old soul this one…

The journey by speedboat from island to island only took 30 minutes, and we got picked up from the pier and driven to the one hotel I was looking forward to the most: The Cabin Beach Resort. Industrial style architecture and design, right on a private beach with a great restaurant, especially excellent breakfast selection. Their branding is fantastic, even the drinking coconuts are branded with their logo and every piece of furniture and decor is consistently industrial. This is one of my new favorite hotels in the world along with La Pirogue in Mauritius (#1). And it seems to be very popular with gay couples

and Lani the only kid. The upside, everyone sleeping in and we have the pool to ourselves in the morning. It is a bit off the beaten path, away from the „pre/post-full-moon-hustle-and-bustle“ but there is a free shuttle to town and they will also drive you around the resort in a little pink golf cart, you just have to whats app your location and desired drop-off point. If you come here without kids it‘s best to rent a scooter to explore the island, provided you know how to ride one. I‘ve seen so many nasty injuries from scooter accidents and they don‘t really heal well in this humidity.

Lani was asking me why I always say fajita to the Thai’s, but what I was actually saying was „Khob khun ka“ which means Thank You haha. Sounds similar, tastes different haha

Koh Samui Koh Phangan

Resort goals: The Cabin Beach Resort

not even 5 years old yet but already master of pura vida, dolce far niente, aloha spirit, shalom & namaste

full moon

two backpackers that travel with suitcases, who just missed the world famous Full Moon Party on Phangan Island by one day (on purpose ) p.s. and proud part Swiss of course

The Cabin Beach Resort

massage on the beach during sunset for the mind - body - soul

using the sister resort’s pool

There is this restaurant we like to go to in Haad Rin, where we usually pay $ 12 for two meals, 2 fresh fruit shakes, one coconut and a water. Anyway, I think the owner has OCD or something because he is always cleaning and so is his wait staff, if they are not serving people they have to clean. And I mean not just surfaces, anything and everything, the salt shacker, ketchup bottle, oil and vinegar dispenser…So you could just sit there for 2 hours and watch them clean, would be relaxing and even though we got our Hepatitis A shots, it is comforting to know it‘s spotless and hygienic. I was hospitalized in New Zealand with the worst salmonella infection that I got in Bali, so not eager to this happening ever again, or any food poisoning actually

Thailand is often referred to as “The Land of Smiles.” It got this nickname because in Thailand, a smile is much more than just a smile…it is a form of subtle interpersonal-messaging. There are at least 13 different smiles that a Thai person may use, each one having a very specific meaning.

Being here reminded me that in the western world we are sometimes to busy to smile, and forget that a smile goes a long way and could even make someones day. So like Ellen de Generes always says, be kind to one another and smile at strangers once in a while (the last one is a quote from me lol)

I was wondering myself if religion in this case (95% of the population are buddhist), had anything to do with it, and talked to a gay couple from New York about it (one having a Chinese background), they were certain of it. Buddha's teachings are that wisdom, kindness, patience, generosity and compassion are important virtues.

In addition, Thais are super helpful, especially traveling as a single mom, I experience so much more kindness and support, also from other tourists actually. And it is so easy to meet people here, especially if you are outgoing, openminded and talk too much like us.

I wanted to do stand up paddling, so the lady from the reception built sandcastles with Lani and they watched me. After 20 minutes, I returned and she went back to work, Leilani was like can she not stay and play some more and have the other receptionist do her work haha I wonder where she got that from!

what's sup

the water is my element and sunsets food for my soul

no filter

The only really problematic thing about the Full Moon Party btw. is all that trash it generates right on the beach, which is taken into the sea by the waves and tides, and I don‘t mean just a little bit, 30‘000 people party here. Also the broken beer bottles in the sand, which is really nice when you are walking barefoot on the beach (as you should) and cut your feet open. I stepped into something a week ago and my toe is still swollen, bought antiseptic cream, hoping I don‘t have to see a doctor. There is always something when I travel!

If you interested in how much stuff costs:

Meal for two incl. drinks in restaurant: $10-20

Bottle of water: 25 cents

Fresh Coconut: $1-2

Fresh Fruit Shake: $2

Beer: $2

1-hour massage: $8-10

SIM Card unlimited Data 30 days: $13

Scooter Rental per day: $7

I use USD $ as a reference because everyone probably knows what that is in relation to their currency. Free advice, never pay the price they are telling you on markets, there is always room for negotiation.

We have a very tough schedule during the 5 days we are here: sleep in, wake up to the sea staring right in our faces, eat yumi breakfast, enjoy the empty pool, go into town, light lunch, thai massage, strolling the streets, back to the hotel and beach time till after sunset, dinner, sleep and a few coconuts in between. I‘ve explored this island before, so no need to do that.

ouch

sweet pup

little hiker

Travel isn’t always pretty. It isn’t always comfortable. Sometimes it hurts, it even breaks your heart. But that’s okay. The journey changes you; it should change you. It leaves marks on your memory, on your consciousness, on your heart, and on your body. You take something with you. Hopefully, you leave something good behind.

morning meditation while the birds are chirping, the sound of the sea and the light breeze

secluded beach

last night at my favorite resort

the beach pack

this girl

Koh Tao - Turtle Island

It was time to leave my favorite resort, one last breakfast, one last swim and goodbye The Cabin and Koh Phangan

We went by boat to Koh Tao and when we were standing in line under a tent to get on it, this guy next to us was starring aggressively at Leilani for no reason. First, I thought he was joking, she was not impressed and just gave him a glare back (she is fierce) and then I realized this guy was serious and probably crazy. He started yelling at her, making threatening moves and swearing in Thai. Because there was nowhere to go, I stood in front of her and told him not to talk or look at her anymore. I was prepared to fight him, for real! I would literally kill for her! Luckily, in this moment they started boarding and he was gone. Suddenly, I hear this commotion, some sort of yelling and fighting and I see him arrested and handcuffed to the railing. So he actually started attacking and beating on a random tourist woman and a cop that happened to be on board arrested him!!! My feeling was right, this guy was psycho! Just glad he didn‘t hurt Lani! My daughter was absolutely unimpressed though. I don‘t know if that‘s good or bad!

Then we arrived on beautiful Koh Tao, only 21km2 and one of the most popular destinations in Thailand for Scuba Diving. We checked into Blue Tao Beach Hotel, decent small room with sea view and you can almost touch the water from your balcony.

This hotel actually doesn‘t have a pool and Leilani has developed a bad sun allergy with rash and the salt water is hurting her but she loves the water. Because I am a solution-oriented person, we are just using the hotel up the roads pool incognito. Nobody cares here anyway what you do and I couldn’t care any less either AND I‘ve always been a rebel that follows the rules (sometimes).

approaching Koh Tao

my out of office reply

this island offers unreal sunsets

my favorite flower, the frangipani

lunch goals

living her best life

how we roll

incognito at the hotel pool next door

I could get used to breakfasts like this

Leilani has been interested in martial arts lately. Her other mom and I always told her that she could play whatever sports she likes, if that‘s hockey or ballet doesn‘t matter, as long as she enjoys it and has fun. So I booked us a private Muay Thai session (also known as Thai boxing) for Thursday in the a.m. and bought us matching boxing shorts pink of course. I didn‘t think it would be this hard and that I sweat so much! But I guess kicking & punching in 33 degree heat outside makes you sweat. Leilani had fun and almost pulled through one hour 1:1 training and the guy that trained me was a machine, a pro, in the end he wrestled me to the floor! I don’t know if that move was part of muay thai though. Maybe it was his way of saying you suck! After that I jumped right into the sea, which was not refreshing btw because it is over 30 degrees warm haha! And right into the airconditioned massage studio of course haha

first muay thai training

At night I experienced an extraordinary feel-good-moment I had an amazing massage on the beach, watching the sunset with really good singer/songwriter live music and my daughter next to me. I was filled with so much joy and happiness, and so grateful and lucky to experience all of this. I do not take it for granted ever

best Italian restaurant on Koh Tao

Aussie breakfast in Thailand

just me & the sea

massage with a view

window to the sea

art breaks are a must

dumplings

nightcap

friends

pad thai

Blue Tao Beach Hotel

cruising around island style

And then of course because it’s me and it would be boring if nothing happens, I broke part of my front tooth off

so if you see me smiling with my mouth closed on photos from now on - that is the reason

On our last day on Koh Tao we took a taxi boat to Nanguyan Island which is only 15 minutes away. It has one of the most beautiful beaches and of course a viewpoint with spectacular vista on the whole island.

taxi boat

Nanguyan Island

At night one last sunset swim in the sea I will miss Koh Tao, life is really relaxing here and there are not a lot of places where you have a whole beach to yourself practically all morning and just float in the water and forget what day and time it is. Luxury is not per se staying in nice hotels but having the freedom to do what you like and when you like it

last sunset

Thailand 2018 vs. 2023

Back to Bangkok

Today, we headed back to Bangkok. In order to do that, we first had to catch a boat from Koh Tao to Koh Samui, a taxi from the pier to the airport, a flight to BKK and another cab to the hotel.

We checked into the Rembrandt Hotel (recommended by a mom travel group), which is a decent 4-star hotel for only $50 a night, with a pool, good location and close to Terminal 21, a big shopping mall. This shopping centre is a mix between little boutiques and big brand shops. The food selection at all of these Asian malls is insane, hundreds of different dining options to choose from, from Korean to Japanese, there is something for every taste.

The one shopping mall though that is not to be missed is Icon Siam. Put that on top of your list

We also visited two night markets, which is also a popular thing to do when in Bangkok.

A little massage tale from our last day. I went to a massage place next to our hotel, and a British guy was facetiming his mates back home non-stop which made me a tiny bit passive-aggressive. I mean seriously who does that, the massage studio is a sacred place for relaxation and calmness

amen. The lady who massaged me tough really meant business, it was deep tissue and sometimes I wanted to scream and jump out of my recliner seat when she really went deep into the muscle

I don‘t know if that was the best idea before a 12-hour flight

Our flight back to Zurich was on Wednesday, 1 a.m., best time (traveling alone), with a small child …NOT!! So we took a taxi, and the driver in all seriousness had his phone mounted to his rear-view mirror and was watching a soccer game!! This is Asia!

At the airport it was already 10.30 p.m. and Lani was super tired, wanting to sleep. I told her she had to push through till after check-in, security and passport control. Luckily, they had little trolleys for shopping and hand luggage, so I put her in that, made her a little bed with blankets and clothes, and within 5 minutes she was sound asleep

Thank you BKK airport

it‘s the little things that make a big difference. So I had some time to myself to eat dinner. However, getting on the plane with 3 bags and a sleeping kid, that‘s dead weight, was a challenge to be honest

All these 21 massages for nothing it feels

Anyway, we slept for about 8 hours, watched movies for 3 and landed safely back home in Switzerland.

Conclusion of our 21-day Thailand Trip:

Spending 24/7 with my daughter is a bliss and adventure at the same time.

We drank so many coconuts in the three weeks that there may be less deaths due to falling coconuts this year. You are welcome.

I am as tanned as olive skinned Italian people get without getting sunburned once my skin will thank me later. It’s crazy the amount of second-degree (maybe even third-degree) sunburn I see on mostly, yes, English people.

I learned that there are 13 different smiles a Thai person can express joy, happiness, gratitude etc.

Despite being here before I don’t remember much (note to self, get that checked out).

Even though thai food is delicious, I can’t eat it for 21 days in a row, there has to be some pasta or pizza once in a while and sushi of course.

Thailand is an amazing travel destination for young and old I don’t know many people that wouldn’t enjoy it here.

It is really easy to meet and connect to likeminded people wherever you are in this country.

Getting a massage every day is not boring but still relaxing and one of my days highlights.

And even though I am a half a world away, when bad things happen I can always count on the support of my friends and family back home

Cities are cool and all but I will always and forever be and islander at heart

And last but not least, farewell Thailand, we will be back. We had such an eventful and all in all fantastic vacation, it really was a lot of fun

➤

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